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Circulation of rags in Vietnam's textile industry

12/11/2021 01:23 PM
Garbage in the textile industry is a large amount of waste in Vietnam textile industry in, and has economic potential value as a source of raw materials for the recycling industry. The recycling of rags into raw materials for the textile industry itself is no longer a distant story when recycling technologies have been developed to increase the quality of the output products.

While mechanical recycling has become commonplace and modern mechanical technology lines can improve the output quality of fabrics, chemical recycling is gradually optimizing in terms of cost, energy and chemical consumption to ensure output quality and economy.

However, in countries like China, India, Bangladesh - although recycling technology is invested and the quality is gradually improving; The recycling of rags in the fashion industry is still difficult due to the inefficiencies of the proper segregation of rags at source, collection, transportation and pre-treatment reasonably. Effective recycling of rags requires a synchronous promotion between technology development and this waste management policy in order to optimize the quality and quantity of recycled materials. Sorting at source and managing fabric scraps efficiently will significantly reduce costs and increase output quality, and this requires the cooperation of brands and factories towards a sustainable future for materials in the textile industry.

Projects around the worldi

Around the world, multi-stakeholder collaborative projects aim to create a non-competitive forum for industry players to work together to promote recycling of rags in the fashion industry. Recyclers actively invest in technology, expanding production to meet fashion brands' growing demand for sustainable materials. Instead of using recycled materials from other industries' waste (for example, PET bottles), fashion brands are tending to commit to using recycled materials from this industry's own waste sources, aims to create a closed loop on materials and towards a sustainable goal: Reducing the impact of solid waste and improving the source of secondary raw materials.

One of the first projects to attempt the rags cycle pattern in the fashion industry is the “New Cotton Project” funded by the European Union, which kicked off in December 2020 with the aim of serving as a premise and stepping stone for larger cyclical initiatives and projects in the fashion industry. The project is expected to operate for three years with the participation of 12 members including brands, manufacturers, recyclers and pioneering organizations in the textile and fashion industry in the European Union. During the three years of project operation, textile industry rags will be collected, sorted and recycled into cellulose fibers according to the patented technology of Infinited Fiber (Finland). These recycled fibers will then be used by manufacturers Inovafil, Tekstina and Kipas to produce yarns, woven fabrics and denim respectively. These yarns and fabrics are then designed, manufactured and sold under two leading brands, Adidas and H&M. This project serves as an alternative to the textile industry's dependence on environmentally polluting raw materials, towards a circular scale and sustainable development for the textile and fashion industries..

Projects are also simultaneously launched in other countries such as the US, India or Bangladesh. In Bangladesh, the non-profit organization Global Fashion Agenda in collaboration with Reserve Resource and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association jointly launched the “Circular Fashion Partnership” project in February 2021, to support the development of recycling in the textile industry in this country. In terms of goals, the project aspires to build a recycling network through segregation of rags at source, establish traceability and manage fabric waste, and redirect this waste stream back to the manufacturing process of products. fashion, towards sustainable development in the Bangladeshi textile industry. To achieve this, the project called for the participation and coordination of brands, manufacturers and recyclers, including H&M, C&A, Pull & Bear, Primark, Gymshark, Amantex, Asrotex Group, BlockTexx , Cyclo...

Rags in Vietnam's textile industry

While countries with large fashion industries in the world have taken steps to test and implement to optimize the quality management of rags, Vietnam has taken initial steps, however, as a technology industry. 2nd largest textile and garment industry in the world - activities to effectively manage this waste stream are still quite vague. The quantity, quality and composition of rags have not been effectively counted, leading to a pre-feasibility assessment to attract recycling technology investors to Vietnam to jointly create value for this waste stream is delayed. With non-detailed, unambiguous data on the quality and composition of rags, it is impossible to come up with the right technology chain for recycling, producing high-quality products.

In the 2020 IDH study, 75% of rags were collected and recycled informally and the label, or the textile factory, did not know how the rags were being handled. With recyclers in Vietnam, they face the problem of current waste quality that is not sorted well, long sourcing time, making it difficult to trace the origin and they have to spend 20-30% more labor cost for separating the rags components. The call for multi-party cooperation, consensus to increase the efficiency of rags classification, transparency and traceability of waste source data in order to attract investment in recycling units, and at the same time promote the circular economy - creating source of domestic secondary raw materials for Vietnamese textile and garment enterprises.  

Project "Circulation of fabric waste in Vietnam's textile industry"

By creating the premise of waste data and optimizing waste separation at source to promote and attract rags recycling technology in the textile industry in Vietnam, towards the ambition of circularizing the textile industry and creating a domestic secondary source of raw materials. This project has called for the participation of stakeholders in the textile industry to cooperate through a Webinar in October with the participation of more than 10 brands and garment factories such as Pantagonia, New Balance, Puma , Far Eastern, Crystal, Saitex and domestic and foreign organizations such as IDH, GIZ, WorldBank and Vitas.

About the project, Reserve Resources mentioned the scope of the project as well as the goals the project aspires to achieve. This project focuses mainly on rags in the cutting process, built on commitments between brands and manufacturers. In terms of goals, this project will establish a recycling network, aiming to reduce the environmental impact of the industry (1kg of recycled mechanical cotton saves at least 2.5kg CO2, 960 liters of water and 2.6 liters of water. m2 of land use), creating transparency throughout the supply chain and forming a sustainable fashion industry in Vietnam.

To achieve these goals, Reserve Resource is committed to providing a platform for tracking and managing textile waste. This platform will make the supply chain of the fabric waste stream to the factory's recyclers more efficient, shortening the stages, intermediary costs and tracking the specific path of the fabric waste source. CL2B - the project management and operation unit, will link manufacturers in the domestic textile industry, form a new recycling network in the textile industry, aiming to build a sustainable industry.

With the desire to bring at least 25 factories in the textile industry in Vietnam to implement the project, CL2B and Reserve Resource hope to collect at most 250 tons/month of rags. The project will also carry out a trial to recycle 500kg of fabric waste into recycled yarn, in order to test and evaluate the technique and quality of recycled yarn in each stage: spinning, weaving, finishing and sewing finished product.

The objective of the project is to lay the premise and background on the context, science and technology required for management, gathering and circulation of textile materials; towards Sustainable Development Goal No. 9, No. 17 and No. 12, expected to be started in early 2022. Currently, the operation team is rapidly working with multi-stakeholder groups and calling for the participation of brands and factories to come to an agreement and put it into practice.

Contact: and get more details about the project.

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